Agals — the black cord that finishes Arab headwear
Spot a neat double black cord resting on a folded headscarf and you’ve spotted an agal. Not just a fashion detail, agals hold the ghutra or keffiyeh in place and carry history and meaning across the Arabian Peninsula. Curious how it’s used, what it stands for, or whether you can wear one respectfully? Read on.
What an agal is and where it comes from
An agal (pronounced "AH-gal") is a circular, often doubled cord worn on top of a folded headscarf. It started with Bedouin tribes who used small ropes to tether camels and then repurposed the cord as a practical head strap. Over time it became a recognizable part of men’s dress in Saudi Arabia, UAE, Kuwait, Qatar and other Gulf states. Materials vary — wool, goat hair, or modern synthetic braids — but the classic look is a black, coiled pair of cords.
How to wear an agal — clear, simple steps
First, fold the ghutra or keffiyeh into a triangle and place it over the head so the front edge sits near the brow. Smooth the fabric so it frames the face. Next, position the agal over the crown of the head, just behind the hairline. The agal should rest lightly, not squeeze the forehead. If it’s too loose, it will slide off; too tight, it’s uncomfortable. Many wear it as two coils, with the inner loop slightly higher than the outer one. Practice a couple times and you’ll get the balance right.
For formal looks, the headscarf is neatly pressed and the agal sits centered. For casual styles, people may let one side of the cloth fall over the shoulder and use a looser agal placement.
Etiquette, care, and buying tips
Respect matters more than fashion. If you’re not part of the culture, avoid wearing an agal as a costume or joke. If invited to wear local dress by a host, it’s usually fine — treat it with respect and follow how locals wear it. Avoid pairing it with inappropriate outfits or wearing it to mock traditions.
Caring for an agal is easy: keep it dry, store it flat so the coils hold shape, and spot-clean with a damp cloth if needed. Higher-end agals use natural fibers and cost more; cheaper options use synthetic braids. Choose quality if you plan to wear it regularly — look for tight braiding and firm loops that don’t fray.
Variations exist: some regions use colored cords, ceremonial gold-trimmed agals appear at state events, and younger people sometimes experiment with slimmer or decorative versions. Still, the classic black double cord is the most common and widely recognized.
Want to learn more about Arab clothing, cultural meanings, or related questions like abayas and keffiyehs? Browse the posts tagged with Agals on this site to read detailed articles and real-reader questions.
